Before I start to tell you too much about the unfolding events of our trek, it might be best to explain what the Lares Trek is and how we came to sign up for it.
Several months ago when we started looking into booking out trip, we were told by friends that one of our main priorities was to book the Inca trail as soon as possible. The Inca trail is famously "the" trail that the Incas nobility took to get to the famous mountain top citadel of Machu Picchu and it's reputation has meant that there are thousands of people who sign up for it everyday from all over the world. Our travel agent at the time however seemed pretty relaxed about the whole affair and as such we relaxed as well. Lo and behold by the time the final tickets had been resolved it seems we had missed the boat as the Inca trail tickets were all sold out...bummer! So we took what the next best thing was which was meant to be the Lares Trek. This trek takes you on "another" inca trail used more so by traders through lush landscapes, over mountain passes and back to Agua Calientes where you catch the bus the following morning to reach Machu Picchu. Maybe not quite all the glamour but that was our only option - an it still sounded pretty fine by us.
One of the major benefits of doing an alternative trek is that there are far less tourists on the trek. In the company we went through and for the dates we set, there were some thirty people doing the Inca trail - multiply that by the countless number of operators in Cusco and you can rapidly understand how busy the famous trek gets - needless to say, toilet tales on the trek are glum. For our Lares Trek however we had the two of us, plus two more fun gals from New York - Maggie and Erin - that's all and as things went, it would turn out that we would scarcely see many other people other than the colourful locals.
Our guide Fernando seemed like a nice guy and our trek sounded pretty exciting on introduction. We would head to the Sacred Valley on the first day along with the larger group and visit the Inca ruins of Pisac and Ollantaytambo where we would stay the night before heading off for the official walking trek the following day. On the first day we would also stop at a project site where they are encouraging the locals to live by more traditional means; where textiles are created using natural dyes and hand woven into anything from tea cosies to thick sweaters.
It was on our night stay in Ollantaytambo that Jane first started feeling the effects of her cold - one day before a three day trek that would see us camping at 4200m - oh crap!...unfortunate timing!
So on the day or out walk, after a three our drive up trough deep green valleys we were dropped off at the Lares hot springs - a nice bonus to the start of our trek. After a warm bath and a solid lunch we were finally ready to set off on our trek just as the heavens opened. it was a cold and wet first day up past a running river, pushing through soaked foliage up to our first camp. We passed 3000m from from where the trees mostly stop growing (the only native trees that could grow at this altitude having been chopped down for firewood a long time ago) and arrived at our camp a little before nightfall. The porters and chefs that make up our party had set off early and had our tents and boiling water ready by our arrival. After another delicious meal and a few games of cards we crawled into our tents for our first cold night on the mountain.
We woke early the next morning and set off in good time for the longest day of the trek. The weather was fine but covered over a little as we headed up into the clouds. After a somewhat breathless climb (altitude) we finally hit the summit of our climb at the Lares Pass just after noon. We stayed at the 4600m pass just long enough to make an offering of thanks to the mountain (as directed by our guide - three coca leaves, a stone from lower on the mountain and a prayer to the four glaciers that surrounded us), take a few photos of the breathtaking view and witness a passing sleet/snow fall.
We quickly started our descent and stopped by a beautiful mountain lake for lunch. Later we continued down past another crystal clear lake (apparently abound with big trout) surrounded by snow capped mountains, past a waterfall and another running river down to a forested valley where we once more joined our prepared campsite in time for tea. That night at 4200m was intensely cold and we all slept in about every layer we had. When I woke at 4.00am I noticed the tent was frozen and it was a rather quick pee break. Poor Jane hadn't had a very good night at all and woke up with a very puffy face that made her look like she had been in a fight. Luckily the sun quickly filled that valley and warmed the air and after a good breakfast we headed down to lower heights to meet our departing van. From there we headed back to Ollantaytambo from where we caught a rather snazzy train that ran down along the Urubamba river gorge to the little town of Aguas Caliente. Aguas Caliente is a pretty name for a town that unfortunately doesn't live up to the expectation. Born out of tourism from the continuous flow of tourist that come through here to get to Machu Picchu, AC is a mish mash of ugly concrete hotels and restaurants in a stunningly beautiful surrounding of cloud forested steep peaks. Our hostel for the night was no exception to the mold and the news of no running water at the time of our arrival was sour news although something we were beginning to get used to in S.America. Luckily there are hot springs in town - giving the town it's name - unluckily every other person had had the same idea and the luke warm pools didn't hold their charm for long. Besides we were to have our own pools right in our room when we woke at 4.00am the next morning to find an inch of water flooding our hotel room. We cast our troubles aside and were prepared in good time for our bus ride to the mountain top Incan citadel.
A glorious morning greeted us as the bus climbed the deathly steep road to Machu Picchu. We were off in good time and the sight that greeted us at the top was one that I'll never forget. Machu Picchu is an incredibly photogenic sight and we have all seen innumerable photos of the place (you will see a lot more when we get home!) so being there yourself is slightly dream like - as if you were living in a photo landscape. We spent the morning roaming the site and being shown around by Fernando, then trudged the short but steep path to the Sun Gate for another perspective before we were "ruined" (boom boom) and headed back to AC for our connection back to Cusco. We arrived later that night and although exhausted we forced ourselves out for a departing meal with our trekking buddies.
All in all, we'd had a great time. Jane pulled through and by the end had all but recovered from her cold. We were somewhat disappointed by the all too many unseen extra costs that we felt should have been covered by the whomping original price, but even these details would not take away from the overall feeling and the countless memories.
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