We arrived in San Marcos on Lake Atitlan amid a massive downpour. Torrents of water were gushing out of the mountainside onto the tarmac as we descended the steep switchback road that dropped steeply toward the lakes edge.
San Marcos is one of the smaller lakeside towns and the spiritual hang out for many hippies, try-to-be hippies, or travelers seeking a slightly different experience. There are several other places to stay and most chose the slightly larger hub of San Pedro which is a little more touristy but also very nice. We chose San Marcos as it had been recommended by many of the people we had met along the road and specifically the Hostal Del Lago. Although not much to look at the hostel had friendly owners as well as many nice guests, and locals just hanging out.
Our stay on the lake was intended to give us the time to relax and allow Jane to get in some serious Yoga time - and that is pretty much how the following days unfolded.
Jane was able to practice yoga in the mornings within the hostel itself with the British lady co-owner named Sarah while I took the opportunity to swing in a hammock and read - perfect.
The lake itself is beautiful with crystal waters, pebble beaches and surrounded by many volcanoes although as we were now well within the rainy season, the peaks only revealed themselves sporadically. As a result of the seasons change, the towns were pretty quiet which only helped us relax even further.
As it turns out though, even in sleepy times, there is still a party, or even a selection of parties to chose from every night.
On the second night, the party host was our hostel, so it would have been rude to miss out. A live band provided some great guitar/beat box tunes with local mc's rapping in both Spanish and the local Mayan dialect. The comfortable setting of our hostel was made even cozier with numerous throw pillows and hammocks set up around moodily lit tables. As it turned out, we were lucky to be having a party at all since the electricity had been down since the storm, that had battered us on our arrival, had knocked down a number of power poles. But power had come back just in time to freeze some ice, keep the drinks cool and provide lighting for what would have been a rather dim event otherwise.
It was raining the next day and we were pretty happy about not feeling the necessity to do anything. When traveling as we are, with often limited time in new towns, you often feel the necessity to get out there and soak up as much of the local flavours as you can. So you often feel guilty when you take the time to sit on your arse and do nothing. It's a strange one as we're on holiday and all the planning and moving often feels like work, but thankfully, on this day at least, we weren't going anywhere.
On our last day in San Marcos we chose to visit the local Cacao Shaman aka Keith...Yup, Keith is your typical 60 odd year old, long haired, bearded, spectacled hippy from the states and also a very interesting character with many great stories to tell. We were slightly suprised as we would have expected a local Mayan but the locals seemed to respect him in his role so we would too. He was apparently chosen as a Shaman by the Cacao Spirit himself and now holds Cacao ceremonies three days a week for a number of locals and passers through alike.
When we arrived on Keith's front porch for the ceremony there was already a decent number of gatherers and by the time a few more had arrived and we were struggling for space, Keith finally brought out his special concoction of Cacao drink.
I'd approached this ceremony with an open mind an tried to keep at bay any preconceptions that might drift into my mind regarding the eclectic mix of crystal bearing, dreadlocked spiritual soul searchers. And so it was, that a rather bizarre experience overcame me. I still cannot say whether it was a result of the high dose cacao drink, the long meditative process or the hyperventilating (that I seemed to be doing as I sought to clear my mind) that brought me there, but amongst a strange chorus of breaths and oming emanating around me, I definitely had a strong new feeling unlike any other. A pulsating energy overcame me and kept me locked in a awkward hold until I was eventually able to slow my breath and work my mind out of it...
A few moments later Jane and I were asked if we would like to part take in a joint meditation overseen by Keith to which we agreed (always willing to try something new). Again the energy returned as Jane and I sat surrounded by the others while Keith lead us through a uniting meditation to share and strengthen out love together.
All in all, a very unique and interesting experience was had and we both felt pretty drained afterwards.
I am still somewhat perplexed as to what it was that I felt that day, but it is said that when energy is stirred within the body, one can often feel ill afterward and true to form, by the time we were boarding our bus to El Salvador the following day, the distinct symptoms of incoming illness were rearing their ugly heads.
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