Guatemala has the highest concentration of indigenous peoples of any of the Central American countries (somewhere around 41%). Although the are nearly all Mayan (except a small group in the southeastern corner of the country), they are divided into a number of different groups that speak many different versions of their native language.
Leaving Flores we had another long hot cramped bus ride to get us down to Lanquin. I think all up this ride was 9 hours, so average on a comparable basis. What made it seem much longer was the lack of leg room, the bum deadening seats and the endless gravel roads toward the end. Still, such a trip makes you that much happier to be where you are when you get there, as if you somehow deserved it.
On the way down from Flores, we were continually faced with the sad sight of the jungle being stripped and burned to make way for agriculture. I am well aware that it is only a privileged westerner's point of view to think that this is wrong and my views would unlikely carry much weight against the locals necessity to make ends meet - but it is a shame none the least - to me.
Lanquin is known more for the waterfalls at nearby Semuc Champey, but the town remains very pretty at the base of a jungle valley with many thatched roofes scattered about. We had originally tried to book into a hostel in town but as it was booked out we ended up in Semuc on the river at a hostel called El Portal. Although it took another half hour along a gravel road to get there, in the end we were very happy about it. El Portal had a number of little chalets perched on the grassy hillside above the river and as we arrived at night we could see many fire flies tracing through the bushes giving the place a magical feel. Later, we were witness to an even greater natural wonder when a massive Rhinoceros beetle crashed into the lightbulb and disoriented for a few moments let us handle it before flying off again. Very cool!
El Portal only runs electricity between 6pm and 10pm so shortly after dinner it was time to hit the hay.
On arrival to our hostel we had met some friendly Aussies who highly recommended a tour that took you to the pools in the morning, then tubing down the river before lunch and finishing up with a visit to the nearby underground caves. We only had limited time so this sounded perfect and it is how we found ourselves dripping with sweat, perched on the cliff side, a hundred or so meters up, overlooking the pools of Semuc Champey the following morning. The pools below looked crystal clear and the few people already there looked to be floating in the air with their shadows suspended below them as they dangled in the water. After the tough trek up to the viewing platform, we were quickly scrambling down the other side of the hill and into our bathing suits as quickly as we could.
The water was a beautifully refreshing temperature and we plunged in. Surrounded by a canopy of lush green trees, the water pours slowly over smoothed granite rocks from one turquoise pool to the next so it is easy to escape the surprisingly few other people around and find your own little slice of heaven. We explored a little and found that little slides had been worn into the rocks where apparently previous adventurous souls had passed. It was all pretty fun until I picked up a little too much speed on one and narrowly avoided tearing a but cheek off! All in all though a blissful experience - Paradise on earth (Yes, another one it would seem...).
Following our pool frolicking, a relaxing meander down the river in an inner tube and an adrenaline hit jumping off an 8m or so bridge, we settled into lunch and I think many of us would have been happy to finish the day off there. 'Fraid not! Caves to explore - Here's your candle! CANDLE???!!!
We remained fairly excited as we met our guide, were passed a 6 inch ling candle and dropped into the knee high deep water at the entrance to the cave. Yes! Did I forget to mention that there was water in these caves? LOTS OF IT!
Our guide, who's name was Rojo (Red - although for no apparent reason) had the distinctively sharp features of the local Q'eqchi (pronounced Kekchi) people as well as their inherent short slight build. This made it easy for him to navigate the tight spaces of the caves as opposed to our larger gangly frames.
Today Rojo was guiding a group of twelve people including ourselves although as it would turn out, we were often left wondering who was leading who. By the time we had reached about the third chamber, our guide lead us in until the water passed his neckline and then kicked off in a rapid swim into the near darkness. Luckily for Rojo, he had a waterproof head torch so he could swim with both hands. We on the other hand found ourselves attempting an awkward one handed doggy paddle as we tried to keep our light source alive. To top it off we were told to attempt to keep our feet high and moving slowly so as not to kick any of the sharp underwater rocks that jut out sporadically. As we headed deeper into the caves, Rojo was left at the rear of the group helping the slow while those at the from of the group (yes Jane and I) attempted to recognize our guides echoes shouts of "Vamos! Vamos!". This meant that often we had little idea of what direction to follow with the candles providing scant light in the dark conditions. Often, we had to wait until Rojo made his way back to the front to show us how to descend the ladder into the next void on the right and avoid the hidden precipice to the left we nearly just followed. Yes, it was pretty sketchy... We ended up climbing underground waterfalls, rock jumping into dark tight pools and swinging through a blind drain hole into a hidden pool below and by the time our candles were all but burnt out, boy can I tell you we were happy to see the light of day!
A few beers were downed that night with some newfound german friends in toast to beautiful places, great experiences but most importantly LIFE!
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